Start in center hole of one side of frame. Come up through back side of frame into that hole. Go down into the hole just to the left, come up into the next hole to the left, go down in that hole and come up in the next one to the left. Continue this procedure to the left, around the corner and down the side until you reach the last hole on the frame closest to the hinge. Now, look at your stitching and notice the pattern. You will notice that in the process of going up through the hole, back down through the next and up through the next, there are spaces in between the holes where no thread shows. This is because the thread that doesn’t show is actually hidden on the back side of the frame. Once you get around the side and down to the last hole, you will then start reversing this same method by going up in the next hole (north wise) and on up and across to the center hole once again, filling in all the spaces that were left blank when you went across the first time. This method truly anchors the purse to the frame and “locks” it into place. In essence, you are stitching the frame twice, which really anchors it to the purse.
Now from the center hole, repeat the same process proceeding to the right, across the frame, down the right side to last hole, and then back up to the center hole once again. Fasten off.
Repeat the same for the other side of the frame.
LINING SUGGESTIONS
LINING: Lay out purse Trace around purse leaving at least a ¼" seam allowance. Lay pattern piece aside for the moment. Lay the frame down on the knitted piece and note where hinge of frame will be positioned and mark it. Lay frame aside for now. Measure about 5/8" from previous mark. This mark is where you will start sewing the sides of the purse together. It allows for the purse to attach to the frame and give you an extra 5/8" for opening and closing once purse is assembled Turning the purse wrong sides together, whip stitch sides together leaving open at your mark and matching corresponding row from opposite site of purse. Turn purse right side out. Your purse is now ready to line. Using tissue, cut out a trial pattern from your previously traced piece. Pin or sew the trial pattern together at sides making sure to leave the sides open the same amount you left open on the purse. Mark this measurement on your tissue pattern and transfer these marks to your lining fabric when ready to cut out. Insert the tissue pattern in the purse and be sure that it is a good fit. If you are satisfied with the fit, take out pins or sewing on tissue and prepare to cut out the fabric lining using your tissue pattern. Fold your fabric in half crosswise. Likewise fold the tissue in half crosswise. Lay folded tissue on fabric, pin and cut out. Sew side seams of lining, again making sure you leave it open in the same position as the purse seams as marked on tissue pattern.
DO NOT TURN lining right side out! You may consider serging the side seams (remember, the bottom seam is a fold), or making a French Seam along sides. This keeps the raw edges from fraying. Insert the completed lining into the purse (PURSE IS RIGHT SIDE OUT, LINING IS WRONG SIDE OUT). If you look into the purse, you want to see finished seams. Pin lining in the purse in the correct position, turning under raw edges where necessary. Pin in place. Hand stitch, using either invisible thread or sewing thread that matches your perle cotton. I use a ladder stitch which makes stitches virtually invisible. Just be careful that you don't have any ugly stitches showing on the outside of the finished purse. Once lining is installed, mount purse on the frame. Add fancy trim where the lining and purse were sewn. I recommend using an invisible thread for this instead of gluing. Remember these beautiful purses are tomorrow's heirlooms and glue could break down or turn yellow with age. If desired, embellish the front of the purse with a fancy brooch or pin from an antique store or use an heirloom piece of jewelry.
The dark thread in the illustration is the thread from the spool of DMC cotton or Anchor cotton thread used to knit the purse (or the thread on which you want the beads transferred). The light thread is the thread from the hank of beads (very thin white thread which holds the beads onto the hank. String as many beads from each hank as desired. When running low on the strung beads, you will need to add more.** To do this, knit to the end of a row. Cut the knitting thread leaving a long tail. Now string more beads onto the thread from the ball. Once you have strung enough new beads, tie a double knot with the ball thread onto the tail from the end of the knitting needle. It is good to use some "Fray Check" or clear nail polish to secure the knots. These knots will be hidden inside the seam of the piece when it is put together. Then the lining will cover all your knots and tails. They don't need to be woven in. You can clip the tails a little shorter once the fray check or sealant has dried.
**Hanks usually contain about 12 strands of beads. You can string as many of these 12 strands as you would like. The more you string, the more you will have to keep pushing back to free up thread for knitting. Also, this can cause some abrasion on your knitting thread. It is more reasonable to string about 6 strands from the 12 on a hank.
In order to keep my hanks and partial hanks from slipping off their threads while they are waiting to be strung, I take a long piece of cardboard and make about a 3/4" slit for each hank or partial hank. Then I insert the threads from the hank into the slits with the beads hanging down the front. Once I have placed each hank into the slit, I tape it down on the back of the cardboard, securing the threads to the cardboard. The tape is easily pulled off when you get ready to use the hank or partial hank.
This is an illustration of how to string beads from hanks.
